Ketchikan
Ketchikan is known by several monikers: Rain Capital of the United States (162 inches average), Salmon Capital (all five species of Pacific salmon are found here), Gateway City and First City (Ketchikan is the first city reached when heading north by sea), and Native American Capital of the state (Ketchikan has the largest population of Native Americans on a per capita basis, more than any other city in the state, and the Northwest Coast influence is strongly felt throughout the community) — but the name I like most is Kwirky Ketchikan. So, what’s so quirky about Ketchikan? Let’s start with your very first step ashore. With all the hustle and bustle of busses and traffic during tourist season, it is hard to imagine that this busy downtown is built on pilings; there is nothing under the shops, streets, banks, bars, and restaurants but the cold, clean water of Tongass Narrows. Depending on where the ship is located, it is not far to Eagle Park and the wonderful eagle carving by local Native carver Nathan Jackson. In the Tlingit language Ketchikan means, “Eagle Wing River” so this beautiful carving represents the town. If you cross Front Street you will be at the corner of Grant and Front, home of one of the best examples of Ketchikan’s super-quirky street stairways. Just before the Water Street tunnel you will see a sign indicating that Front Street has become a flight of stairs. These steep wooden stairs are a “street.” Several homes open onto the stairways just as they would a street. The postman must climb the many flights to
deliver mail and residents must haul up their furniture and groceries. As you explore town, keep an eye out for more street stairways. Throughout Ketchikan, totem poles have been carved and raised, telling the story of individuals as well as myths and legends in Tlingit culture. Take a moment to read the interpretive signs. Two famous totem poles are along Creek Street next to the city museum, the Story of How Raven Stole the Sun and the Chief Joseph Pole. While the original Chief Joseph Pole was carved in 1901 and is now stored at the Totem Heritage Center, a 55-foot replica carving of the pole, complete with a beautiful winged Kadjuk bird at its top, now towers in its place. Wander down to Creek Street, located on Salmon Creek, where the stilted houses were once bordellos during cannery days. The local joke is that Ketchikan was the only place where both men and salmon went upstream to spawn. Today the area has been renovated and contains many shops including SoHo CoHo Gallery, home of Ray Troll, truly one of Ketchikan’s most colorful quirky characters. During the summer, the Salmon Shuttle runs a continuous loop from all the cruise docks to downtown, Creek Street, the Totem Heritage Center and Salmon Hatchery. You can hop on and off compliments of the City of Ketchikan. The bus is easy to recognize as it covered with colorful salmon painted by non-other than Ray Troll.
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