Mediterranean
OUR LADY OF THE ROCKS For those in pursuit of non-feline-fulfillment, take a 30-minute boat trip to this tiny island in the Bay of Kotor near the town of Perast. Legend has it that on July 22, 1452, two fishermen returning from a dangerous voyage saw an image of the Virgin Mary on a rock in the bay. They continually dropped stones around the spot, slowly creating an island upon which a small Orthodox chapel was built. It soon became a tradition for sailors to drop stones in the water around the chapel before a voyage. Today, the 1722 Church of Our Lady of the Rocks stands on the island, and every 22nd of July, citizens of Perast take their boats and throw rocks into the sea in a custom known as fašinada .
KOTOR KITTY LORE A short walk from Arms Square leads to Trg od mačaka (Cats’ Square), home to a small, quirky Cats Museum and boutiques selling cat-related gifts. On a stroll through the medieval maze of cobblestone streets in Stari Grad (Old Town), you’ll pass contented felines lounging in doorways, perched on windowsills, and nibbling at bowls of food left out by shopkeepers and residents. Considering Kotor’s tumultuous history, the city’s affinity for cats and their history in the town is as quixotic as the creatures themselves. Benevolent shopkeepers tell tales of cats saving the city from extinction during the Black Plague of the 14th century and of cats wailing days before an earthquake in 1979, causing frightened residents to evacuate Kotor before the devastation. Even the symbol of the Venetian Republic, the Lion of Saint Mark, has been suggested as a symbolic inspiration for feline appreciation. Like most spoken histories, there’s a mix of truth and hyperbole in these urban legends. Here’s what is known: Kotor’s compact Old Town has been a port of call for trade vessels since at least the 12th century. Multitudes of ships from around the world, many carrying cats of different breeds, have docked in Kotor, a city sandwiched between mountains and water, leaving sea-weary felines little choice but to take refuge in the city. Locals have long lauded the cat population for ridding the city of rats, mice and snakes, leading many to view their resident cats as bringers of luck and good fortune.
A TALE OF KINDNESS In truth, the modern-day adoration of cats in this medieval gem along the Adriatic originated with a simple act of kindness. According to the Tourism Board of Kotor— which accepts donations for cats in its Old Town office— the owner of a souvenir shop in Cats’ Square made it her mission to feed the furry denizens. Her daily efforts inspired others, and soon, neighboring business owners, residents, and visitors were engaged in looking after the cats. It didn’t hurt that the photogenic felines added a distinct charm to social media posts about their already atmospheric city, which in turn ignited an international recognition and appreciation of these furry ambassadors of Kotor. Increased exposure also prompted efforts to improve the cats’ general health and well-being. Many businesses, including the popular Cats of Kotor souvenir shop, donate proceeds towards feeding and providing veterinary care to the city’s feline population. Besides food and water left out by so many, you’ll spot homemade abodes for cats to take shelter in public spaces. Charities like Kotor Kitties are dedicated to creating a more humane environment for felines by controlling their population through spaying and neutering, with encouraging results. You can find information on donating to this important US-based charity at their website: kotorkitties.org.
Joe Wall is an American writer who’s lived and worked in Australia, Fiji and New Zealand. His affinity for the word ‘mate’ appears permanent.
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