Northern Europe
A LOCAL CREATOR OF FAIRY TALES Despite Nyhavn’s less-than-pristine reputation, many prominent Danish artists have lived in the now-famous townhouses lining the canal over the years. Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), Denmark’s celebrated writer of literary fairy tales, called it home during periods of his adult life. The author of The Little Mermaid , The Ugly Duckling , Thumbelina , and many more lived in three Nyhavn houses that still stand today: No. 20 from 1834-1838, No. 67 from 1845-1864 and No. 18 from 1871-1873. You’ll also find statues of Andersen at the north end of King’s Garden and in Copenhagen City Hall Square.
Nyhavn’s infrastructure underwent improvements over the years, especially with the building of a new bridge in 1912. Ocean-going vessels became too large for the shallow canal, however, and though small vessel freight traffic kept the port alive for a time, Nyhavn became devoid of marine traffic after World War II. A group of local citizens formed the Nyhavn Society in
the mid-1960s to push for the harbor’s revitalization, and in 1977 Nyhavn became a heritage harbor for museum- quality ships (south side) and privately owned wooden ships (north side). Making the quay pedestrian-friendly in 1980 revitalized the area, as restaurants and bars could offer ample outdoor seating and cobblestone walkways beckoned one and all to return to this historic waterway in the center of Copenhagen. SIMPLE DANISH PLEASURES Today, sipping a cold Carlsberg on a warm Danish afternoon while street musicians entertain passersby among the old boats, colorful facades and bustling eateries of Nyhavn’s northern (sunny!) side is as essential a Copenhagen experience as visiting the Little Mermaid sculpture or reveling in the magic of Tivoli Gardens. Nyhavn’s southern side is quieter and lined with lavish mansions, like the massive Charlottenborg Palace, and of course, offers the best view of Copenhagen’s iconic tableau. A tradition among locals is to purchase a bottle of Danish beer from a nearby shop (public drinking is an acceptable practice in Denmark) and sit beside the canal, enjoying Nyhavn’s vibe and saving more than a few kroner.
SAMPLING SMØRREBRØD While Nyhavn’s eateries offer a variety of cuisines, you may be tempted to try a traditional Danish meal – and that means sampling smørrebrød. When industrialization reached Denmark in the 19th century, workmen began packing lunches and the tradition of smørrebrød—which translates to ‘butter on bread’—emerged. Danish restaurants began offering versions of it in the 1880s, resulting in popular options like håndmad, made from a simple piece of bread, butter and fillings; amagermad, made from French bread and rye bread layered with butter; højtbelagt, made from extravagant layers of toppings; and smørrebrødslagkage, a layer cake made from slices of wheat bread stacked with various fillings.
Nyhavn’s famed 17th- and 18th-century townhouses are privately owned but offer insights into Copenhagen’s past. No. 9 is the oldest building along the canal and is said to be unmodified since its construction in 1681. A tattoo parlor in operation since 1884 that claims to be the world’s oldest is located in the basement of No. 17. The parlor’s most famous client? Denmark’s King Frederik IX. No. 18 houses a Hans Christian Andersen-themed souvenir shop, and No. 20 has a plaque commemorating that the writer lived there when his first collection— Tales, Told for Children —was published in 1835.
Joe Wall is an American writer who’s lived and worked in Australia, Fiji and New Zealand. His affinity for the word ‘mate’ appears permanent.
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